Central AmericaGuatemala

From Guatemala to Guatepeor in Antigua

antigua, guatemala

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My long-scheduled trip to Antigua, Guatemala had been lurking at the back of my mind for a while, necessitated by the need to get out of the country before my Mexican Temporary Residence permit expired, but I can’t say I was feeling as enthusiastic as I would have liked about my first foray into Central America, alone and with far fewer Guatemalan quetzales than I would have liked. Turns out, my bizarre foreboding sensation was almost entirely proven correct, especially in the beautiful but corrupt backpacker havens of Antigua and San Pedro La Laguna. Did I have a good time in Guatemala? Short answer: no. Long answer: Oh, you’ll have to keep reading for that.


To say this trip did not get off to an auspicious start would be an understatement. I mean nothing screams success like having to circle over Guatemala City’s airport for thirty minutes as the workers on the ground ‘clean the runway’ (whatever that means) and a portly, overly chatty and downright irritating Italian man next to you chews your ear off about his Ukrainian wife and all the countries he’s lived in. Nor does being told by the pilot that he’ll be giving it fifteen more minutes before heading to their back up runway. In El Salvador. As in, a totally different country altogether.

You’ll be glad to know that we didn’t end up rerouted through El Salvador in the end, instead coming into land in what can only be described as not ideal (read: windy as fuck) conditions in Guatemala. I hopped through immigration, got a pleasingly colourful stamp added to my passport and headed to Antigua via shuttle. So far, so not-that-terrible, right?

Related Post: Must-Read Books About Guatemala


Well after the possibility of a reroute through El Salvador, I thought everything would look up after arriving at the hostel I’d booked right outside Antigua’s historic centre. How wrong I was. Let me put it this way, if staying in the hostel of a bizarre, warring Russian couple who perpetually stink of sweat and actively allow a known thief to live in their midst sounds like your idea of a relaxing start to a Central American adventure, by all means, stay at Hostal Capitan Tom in Antigua, Guatemala. You’ll love it.

(Or, you know, book a decent hostel. Or better yet, an Airbnb.)

Funnily enough, I did not love it.

antigua, guatemala

They did have dogs though. THREE OF THEM!

This place was genuinely the worst place I’ve ever stayed in my life, but I won’t get into it again here. (You can read this post for the full story which contains a great Russian language pun and some actually decent Antigua hostel recommendations.)

Moral of the story? Don’t stay at the cheapest accommodation on HostelWorld. There’s a reason they’re charging less than their competent competitors.

The only upside is that the theft of my 400Q prompted me to move to a far better hostel (Hostal Villa Esthela), where I actually felt safe to cook (and could therefore save myself some money in this overpriced town) and have a decent, shower. My standards had been dramatically lowered by this point. AND they even had free coffee. I was being spoiled, I tell ya.

antigua, guatemala

The rooftop view from Hostal Villa Esthela


OK, so my hostel was shitty but I still needed to give Antigua a chance, I thought, before I headed out to the centre and realised the locals’ propensity for walking two by two on the narrow pavements and not budging an inch for other oncoming walkers. There’s not much that pisses me off more than people who don’t have the common courtesy to make run for other people on a pavement and Antigua seemed to fucking know this. Which explains why I eventually ended up shoulder barging an old man.

*All readers squint to see if they read that correctly*

*Yes, yes, she did in fact say she shoulder barged an old man*

antigua, guatemala

OK, hear me out, before you dismiss me as a (totally) shitty person. I was walking right on the edge of the entirely empty pavement, carrying all my worldly belongings and feeling pretty pissed off as I headed all the way across town to my new hostel for the night (more on that later). This old Guatemalan man saw me coming and actively moved directly into the path where I was walking, for…well, who knows why. So, I did the only logical thing and refused to move for him (he, by the way, knew what he was doing and even stood still as we got within inches of one another expecting me to move. He really picked the wrong day to play chicken with me though.) The resulting shoulder barge was met with a shout of WATCH WHERE YOU’RE GOING from him, which I replied to (in genius fashion) with NO, YOU WATCH WHERE YOU’RE GOING. Whatta zinger. He then told me to get back to my country, as I huffed off down the road to find my hostel. So, yeah, stay in your own lane pedestrians. Literally.

antigua, guatemala


As I hinted at above, Antigua is not the budget backpacker haven you might be expecting and was, in my opinion, more expensive than other similarly touristic Mexican towns of a comparable size and status. It was also far more disappointing when it came to cuisine.

Honestly, Mexico has utterly ruined the ability to eat food in other countries and enjoy it, marring my favourite part about travelling, by being so fucking tasty. God damn you tacos al pastor, I never asked for this! Guatemalan street food and cuisine just paled in comparison and was far pricier to boot. Take the promising looking burrito I ate at Casa de Las Mixtas, which tasted like the secret ingredient was dish soap, or the cold rellenito I bought from a street vendor in the centre (admittedly, I can see how that would have been delicious were it freshly plucked from the frying pan though). In fact, the only place I ate decent food in Antigua was at the genuinely great Rincón Típico, right off La Merced. For 30Q you get a choice of meats, accompanied by two well-seasoned, non-soapy sides, thick handmade tortillas and juice. I definitely recommend this place.

(I do, however, recognise that my budget put the breaks on trying out places that were probably genuinely tasty, so keep that in mind and if you are looking for budget eats in Antigua, Guatemala, I found this post to be a very useful resource.)

Related Post: Why You Have To Eat Fast Food in Mexico

antigua, guatemala


Anyway, questionable anecdotes and overpriced food aside, Antigua is, in my eyes, just another tiny town that seems to have been taken over by a party-hard, cocaine-snorting crowd of travellers who descend on the place, hang out in herds of roaming foreigners, never bothering to learn Spanish yet claiming they’ve found their slice of paradise in Central America. Cool story, guys, but you just make me cringe for you. (Arguably, that just tells you more about the people I was hanging out with and the places I went to, so, as with any first person, subjective account, take my assessment with a pinch of salt. However, that doesn’t negate the fact that that’s how I felt.)

antigua, guatemala

Antigua is also deceptively commercial, hiding massive fast food chains behind the quaintly colonial facades of their pastel-hued buildings. In many ways, I feel like this serves as an appropriate parallel for the vibe of the town itself, which seems pleasant enough during the day (if very touristy and full of locals who don’t know the meaning of sharing a pavement with oncoming pedestrians), but transforms into a drug-taking, English-speaking only party town after dark. My one night out in Antigua involved far too many handsy locals and a coked-up driver for my liking.

Related Post: Backstrap Weaving is The Highlight of Lago Atitlan (COMING SOON)

As a side note, I’d never realised how much elderly white men love talking the ears off solo women until this trip. On multiple occasions, I was minding my own business, only to be met with the dulcet tones of an old guy in my ear. One man from Missouri collared me in the central square while I was reading and proceeded to give me his life story as I slowly but surely tried to edge away and say my goodbyes, while I feel like I now know the aforementioned Italian on the plane entirely too well.

antigua, guatemala


Now, I recognise that my stay in this popular Guatemalan town was marred somewhat by the utterly shitty luck (which also included a website hack) that plagued me over the three days I was there, but I still have *opinions* about that place in and of itself.

First of all, it is undeniably pretty. Street after street of colourful houses, colonial buildings and crumbling religious relics, as well as the swell of the mountains bubbling up around Antigua on all sides really make it a captivatingly enticing destination. However, I’ve seen towns and cities like this in Mexico, done far, far better than Antigua. And I’ve seen it done cheaper, with friendlier people and miles better food too. Basically, if you’ve ever spent time in Mexico, Antigua may seem just as beautiful and charming, but your opinion of it is sure to be tarnished by the clear superiority of its northern neighbour.

Related Post: The Most Colourful Towns in Mexico

antigua, guatemala

Am I biased? Duh. This is a principally Mexico based travel blog, after all, and I’ve lived there for two years, so my opinions on the place are obviously positive as a rule of thumb. However, I think this is a pretty standard opinion, shared by many, many people. My advice is, visit Mexico after Guatemala and let the charm of Antigua suck you in, all the while keeping in mind that there’s something infinitely better waiting for you a bit further north.

As for drawing comparisons with Mexico, some will think that’s unfair. Me? I think it’s to be entirely expected. However, if you want my trademark rage-subjectivity combined with some more objective facts and figures, check out my Country Guide: Mexico or Guatemala? (COMING SOON)

Alternatively, if you want a totally different perspective on Antigua, either this photographic guide to Antigua or this Antigua appreciation post might just be the article for you.

Do you agree with my assessment on Antigua, Guatemala? Let me know your thoughts in the comments!


  1. Shari 8 September, 2017 at 08:00 Reply

    Other than Tikal, we were also underwhelmed by Guatemala (and Belize tbh). When we crossed the Mexican border, we felt like we were finally back home!

    I didn’t realize you were in Guatemala when you were hacked. Suuuuuucks.

    Totally agree though, Mexican is my favorite country so far!

  2. E 9 September, 2017 at 03:10 Reply

    I live in Guatemala (not Antigua) and love it. I understand that Antigua is a big UNESCO World Heritage tourist town. It has become more expensive. Sure, young people come here, some to study Spanish and some to say they are studying Spanish, instead just partying. There are plenty of quiet, inexpensive places to stay. I’m sorry you found one that wasn’t pleasant. Also, there are some very good restaurants, not all of them expensive. There is one, La Conche, near the Merced Church, that serves up big bowls of traditional Mayan food at low prices. The digs are far from fancy, but the experience is wonderful. I don’t think your time here was representative of what a trip to Antigua would be like for many. Do you use TripAdvisor to find places to stay and to eat? And the guy on the sidewalk? Nothing like that has ever happened to me. I live in a smaller town (Panajachel) and find that almost everyone greets one another on the street, and that people are very friendly and polite. Oh my.

    • Lauren 9 September, 2017 at 05:24 Reply

      Ahh, awesome! I totally screwed myself on accommodation, for sure. I would probably have been more open to the place had my stay in that first hostel not been SO bad.
      As for eating, I prefer to go by other blog recommendations, although I occasionally check TripAdvisor too. That La Conche place sounds great!
      I agree that I don’t think my experience was representative either, btw! I think most people have much better experiences there haha.
      Aaaand I hate to be a total downer on the place, but I wasn’t a huge fan of Pana either (although I was there VERY briefly, and admittedly, I would return to the lake to explore some of the more offbeat and quieter areas). Antigua though? Naaaah.

  3. Miranda 21 September, 2017 at 17:28 Reply

    oh my god every step of the way sounds like a nightmare! Though, I do want to mention that I do NOT think you are a shitty person for slamming an old man. I would’ve done the same. That behavior (unfortunately) happens a lot in the US even in my little wisconsin town…even AFTER I said “excuse me” several times. (Actually happened last week).

    Though it is a shame (or is it?) that Mexico spoiled you with such good food! Simply your mention of that makes me want to book a trip to Mexico just to eat (and to try real Mexican cuisine rather than the fake stuff we have in the states lol)

  4. Ingrid 21 September, 2017 at 18:05 Reply

    Your honesty is totally refreshing! Sometimes travel just sucks. I found Antigua to be too “agringado” and overrated. And totally agree that elderly men love talking the ears off solo women. A New York Times writer has even coined a term for this phenomenon: the MANOLOGUE.

    And tbh I’ve found most Latin American food pales in comparison to Mexico’s. You definitely get spoiled!

    • Lauren 23 September, 2017 at 21:17 Reply

      Hahahaha thank you! Yeah, it was not my favourite place, sadly 🙁 I LOVE that phrase (Manologue) and I’ve never heard it before!

  5. Alba 21 January, 2018 at 22:45 Reply

    I felt absolutely underwhelmed by Antigua the first time I went too. And it was Easter, and I had been in Guatemala for like four months and Antigua was the one city everyone recommended so I really wanted to go. Was it a good idea? Definitely not. It was overcrowded, there were way too many gringos and we ended up sleeping in a hostel’s garden hammocks because there was literally not one bed in town for us that cost less than 500Q. Some months later, we passed Antigua on our way to the capital and stayed at a Couchsurfing. We had time to visit a couple museums and to explore a less gringo side of the town and I actually ended up kind of liking it. Definitely not my fav place in my beloved Guatemala, but it actually is nice!

  6. Manu 5 May, 2018 at 15:55 Reply

    As a Guatemalan I can tell you Antigua is overrated. Us Guatemalans stopped going there years ago.

  7. Nadir 3 September, 2018 at 02:10 Reply

    I lived in Antigua for 3 years. At first I loved it. Quiet, picturesque, good food. The problem is that Antigua is a victim of its own charm. Beautiful colonial homes have need turned into cheap shitty hostels full of barefoot, drunk, disrespectful, Americans, Australians, brits and other token European travelers. Antigua has turned into a party town. I moved back to the states after I couldn’t take it anymore.

    It’s a shame.

  8. Jordan Ellington 4 September, 2018 at 17:14 Reply

    I’m in Antigua right now and hate it. I’m a seasoned Central American traveler and I’ve never been this turned off by a supposedly respected city. I had a young dude intentionally knock into me HARD just last night and I don’t take that stuff lightly to be honest. He turned to say something snarky but saw the utterly pissed look on my face and basically tuned red and ran. It was so rude, and pretty stupid, of him if I might add. Everyone wants to sell me cocaine but I get the feeling they’re just trying to rip me off judging by their talk. from what I’ve seen this isn’t really a party town at all. But I’m used to Nic, Pan and CR so maybe my standards are high. There’s nothing I like about Antigua thus far other than the volcanos/natural scenery. Coulda seen volcanos almost anywhere though

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